We believe it is better for the kittens to be raised in a home environment and kept with their mother until they are ready to leave for their new homes at between 13 and 16 weeks old. Research shows that kittens are still learning from their mother at 13 weeks old.

Our kittens are born in our bedroom which is quiet and away from other cats, this keeps mum and babies secure and free from stress. When the kittens start to wean at around 4/5 weeks old they and mum move into our dedicated kitten room . This room is for kittens only and is safe and full of toys and kitten safe climbers so they can learn how to be rough and tumble Coony kittens. Once they have had their first vaccination they then come into our living room for long periods of time to get used to all the general noises and chaos of a busy family home and of course to be extremely well cuddled by us and our 2 children. These periods of time are extended until the kittens are free roaming with all the other cats which make them bomb proof and very well socialiased with humans and other pets.

Our kittens are vacinated at 9 weeks old and again at 12 weeks old with a 5 in 1 vaccine and treated against worms and fleas as a precaution. All kittens have two veterinary health checks before leaving our home. All kittens come with a signed certified pedigree and are registered with TICA (The International Cat Association). They come with 4 weeks free insurance with Petplan and it is adviseable to continue this insurance if possible. We also provide a kitten pack of food samples, toys and a blanket which mum & siblings have slept on. These items will help your new kitten to settle in their new home.

Enquiries regarding kitten availability are always very welcome and photographs are readily available. We are also happy to consider enquiries for breeding cats to registered breeders only. Kittens can be visited when they are 6/7 weeks old when you can also meet Mum & Dad.

In general we do not keep a waiting list. When we have kittens available we will post their pictures and information on our "Current Kittens" page, so please check back often. If you are looking for a particular colour please do get in touch and we will do our best to advise you of the possibilities. Kittens are offered for option in the order that we have been contacted and can be visited when they are 6/7 weeks or older. If when you meet your optioned kitten you are happy we will then require a non-refundable deposit to reserve your kitten until he/she is old enough to leave at 13-14 weeks old. Our kittens come with a standard contract which we ask you to sign. This contract is to protect the future well being of your kitten and is standard practice amongst ethical breeders.

GENERAL INFO & RESTRICTIONS (FOR PETS)
(Please read the following before contacting us)

1. We prefer indoor only homes or access to a cat secure garden/run
2. Cats/kittens must NOT be declawed
3. Pet cats must NOT be bred from
4. Kittens must be spayed/neutered at 6-8 months of age.
5. Cats/kittens must receive quality veterinarian care as needed
6. Our cats/kittens must never be given to a shelter, animal rescue, or research laboratory.

Moving home can be a stressful time for your new kitten. It is advisable for you to keep your new kitten confined to one room for a few days, so that they can get used to their new surroundings, new sounds and smells, and of course, you.
When you arrive home put the kitten in their carrier in the room which you would like them to be in and leave the door closed for about 10 mins, then open the carrier and let your kitten come out in their own time. The journey home will have been strange to them. Once they have ventured out, show your kitten where the food, water and litter tray is. Keep these in the same place until your kitten is used to where they are. Some kittens can suffer a little diarrhoea - this can be due to the stress of the move and should clear up in a couple of days - do not change their diet or feed treats for the first couple of weeks or so.

Things you will need
Bed
Litter Tray
Litter
Food & Water dishes
Cat food
Comb and brush
Toys

Diet
Fresh water at all times, NO COWS MILK as this will upset your kittens stomach, full fat Goats Milk can be given occasionally . If he/she eats a lot of dry food she will drink a lot as it contains very little water. Prepared foods: your kitten has been eating Felix As Good As It Looks Kitten pouches, Whiskas Kitten pouches in Jelly, Whiskas kitten Loaf (can). Fresh foods: raw turkey, raw minced Lamb, Tuna in springwater (never brine) and steamed Coley fish. Dry Food: Royal Canin Kitten 36 and Hills Kitten.

Cats eat many small meals a day therefore I would recommend dry food to made available all day and also feed three- four wet meals a day, morning, lunch, early evening and just before bed (kittens need more than adults). Always make sure there is plenty of food available through the night as your kitten will be very hungry upon waking at first light. On average expect your kitten to eat 3-4 pouches of wet food a day plus dry food.

Litter
Your kitten has been used use to wheat based litter either Baby Chick Crumbs/ Poultry Pellets (available from farm feed merchants) or World Best cat litter. However he/she should not mind any other sort. If you want to change the type of cat litter gradually add the cat litter of your choice to the wheat based litter.

Grooming
It is essential to buy a long-toothed comb, groom as and when necessary this is especially important during the Spring moult. Initially groom very frequently for short periods of time so that he/she gets used to it, then he/she will not object as an adult.

Spaying/Neutering
This should be done at around 6 months of age for girls and around 8 months for boys.

General Information
I do hope you enjoy your new kitten which I am sure will give you many hours of pleasure for many years to come. Remember young kittens need a lot of sleep so try not to disturb him/her too much – tempting though it is. He/she is also going through a ‘mouthing’ (teething) stage at the moment and is likely to try and put anything in his/her mouth and chew on it, please be aware of any poisonous substances and trailing wires.

Dangers
Cut flower can be poisonous to cats especially Lilies. At Christmas time please be extra vigilant as pine needles and sap are poisonous to cats. Please ensure they do not have access to the water pot a real tree may sit in. Poinsettia is also very poisonous to cats so please ensure they are kept well away from your new kitten who will be very curious about anything new to them.  Chocolate is also poisonous to animals.

Be careful of dishwashers, washing machines, cookers, fridges, electrical cables, etc. Kittens will investigate ANYTHING regardless of whether it is good for them or not! Maine Coons love water so be mindful of toilets and hot baths.

Buying a kitten should always be fun but please never buy a kitten on impulse and never buy a kitten because you feel sorry for them. Sadlly there are many breeders that do not have the best interests of the cats, kittens or breed in mind. If you purchase a kitten because they are poorly or have been raised in unacceptable conditions all you are doing is ensuring the same will happen to future kittens. It is much better (although harder) to politely walk away then report them to the appropriate authorities.

It is all the more important then to do as much research as you can and make informed choices and decisions before you buy, so that the whole experience of buying and owning a cat is as happy and wonderful as it should be. The following may help in this respect:-

Buying a Pedigree
The reasons for buying a pedigree kitten vary from wanting a pet or a companion, to wanting to breed and show. The advantage of a pure bred cat is that they have fairly fixed characteristics and temperaments and so it is easier to find a breed that is right for your particular environment and lifestyle.

While many a moggy or cross breed is as full of individual character and just as good looking as any pedigreed cat, it is the luck of the draw choosing a kitten. You may well acquire one, which though delightful as a kitten, as an adult will live a solitary life of its own "paying rent" by tolerating a pat when it comes for a meal...... to be sure of what to expect then buy a pedigree kitten.

Sadly there are many "breeders" that claim to be selling pedigree kittens that are not or cannot be registered. It is likely that these cats may have been bred "illegally" from pedigree cats sold as pets only which are restricted from breeding. There is no way to ensure these kiitens are actually pedigree and in reality you could be buying the offspring of a pet cat that bred with the local tom that just happens to look like your chosen breed and more worryingly there will be no knowledge of termperament or future health. If you want a pedigree kitten then please do the research and make sure that is what you get.

Don't believe the hype - look beyond bragging adverts and web pages
Breeders may fill these with show results and judges commendations: these may appear impressive but the breeder may be only showing you their successful results, rather than the complete picture. Plus they say nothing for the kittens suitability as pets, which is ultimately far more important to the average buyer.

Some may brag about being the most successful or biggest cattery with the most breeding cats and the most kitten sales. There is of course nothing wrong with being a big cattery but such overblown claims may reveal 'kitten farms' employing bad practices such as over-breeding or poor living conditions, with many cats crammed in small cages with minimal recreational space. Look for evidence of large numbers of litters per queen over short periods - this is very bad for them. Ask to visit and see for yourself.

Consider also that in such catteries the breeder will probably adopt a much more businesslike approach and may be less willing or able to devote time to their cats and kittens on an individual basis - this is really important for temperament. These kittens are more likely to grow into cats with behavioural or health problems, plus this results in giving reputable breeders (and the breed itself) a bad reputation.

If possible, try to visit the breeder and see the kitten first
In fact most ethical breeders will insist that you visit prior to collecting your kitten as they will want to know where their much loved kittens will be going.

When you visit ask yourself: do the kittens and other cats you see look healthy, with no obvious ailments, and well fed? Do they all seem contented and playing freely? Is the atmosphere relaxed and welcoming, with the breeder not trying to obviously hide anything? Do you have a good feeling about it?

You should be able to reasonably see other cats the breeders may have, they may be indoor cats or housed outside. Having breeding cats outside is not necessarly a bad thing and with the best will in the world having an entire male living indoors can be a logistical nightmare let alone dealing with their undesiable toileting habits (I know I have done it). However having all cats and kiitens kept outside may be the sign of a "kitten farmer" rather than a cat lover.

Spend time with the kitten and also other cats there and don't be afraid to ask questions. Don't be pushed into a sale if you are unsure or it is not what you are looking for. A reputable breeders will never force a kitten on as this would not be in the best interests of the kitten.

Don't pay over the odds
Breeders are free to charge what they like for their kittens, but it's worth contacting several breeders first to see what they are asking. It's not unknown for the unscrupulous breeder to bump up the price when they know a buyer is unaware of what is fair and reasonable or has not spoken to other breeders. Be careful about paying a lot more for a kitten based on a breeders claims and equally be careful about paying too little. A little research will reveal what is a fair price to pay.

Also find out what is (and isn't) included in the price - very cheap prices might not include vaccinations, tests, injections, regsitering or other expensive 'extras'.

Cats bought for breeding may command higher prices - this is perfectly fair as other tests, etc. are necessary and these are an additional expense for the breeder.

Beware of breeders who rubbish other breeders
If you are in contact with a breeder and they make a point of warning you off buying from their competitors, treat their free 'advice' with caution, even if apparently warning about a breeder mistreating cats or conning buyers. Their concerns may be wholly legitimate, but unfortunately the more unsavoury element involved in the cat fancy will lie and spread misinformation with the sole purpose of wrecking others' reputations, so before avoiding the breeder of your choice visit them and see for yourself.

About clubs and breeders lists
Remember that being members, or even being high-up within breed clubs or governing bodies, and entries on breeders lists are not endorsements of breeders nor any guarantee of the quality of their cats. Some perfectly reputable breeders are not even members of clubs and don't appear on their breeders lists.

Look throughout the different media - many don't have web-sites and may only advertise in show catalogues and certain magazines, but are just as worthwhile to contact as those who do. Reputable breeders will always direct you to others when they themselves are unable to help you.

Buying show cats
If you specifically want a show cat, visit shows and log results. Note which cats win consistently, especially when in competition with many other cats. Beware of breeders who tell you a kitten will definitely become a champion cat NO BREEDER CAN EVER GUARANTEE THIS!

Carefully read contracts
Many kitten sales are made subject to signing a contract or agreement. This is normal, but as always carefully read everything first before signing. You may be tied to clauses which stipulate what you must and must not do with a cat, especially if you decide to use it for breeding at a later date. Make sure you are happy to be legally bound by what you are signing.

Do your homework
If you are very keen on a particular breed, it always pays to do research on it and learn as much as possible. This way you can discover things like known temperament or genetic problems and know what to expect from your chosen breed.

Read books and magazine articles, visit shows, speak to exhibitors and breeders. Joining breed clubs and societies can be useful too. Also use the internet - aside from clubs and breeders own homepages, there are lots of useful resources such as chat groups, where you can discuss issues and obtain advice from experienced people.